Thursday 9th September
We decided to stay a second night on the same campsite because the facilities are excellent and the site is lovely and small. After breakfast, we look at the OS map and decide to find another beach. We spot one that’s quite near, just a few villages away.
We set off to find the beach, but miss the turn and realise it’s a narrow road next to a filling station. We go down the road for about a mile and stop in a rain-soaked field next to a battered, red transit van. Just 20 yards further and looking over a cliff, there it is – it’s even better than the first beach we found.
It is stunning.
What strikes us first is the colour of the sand. Not white nor golden, but a very strong colour in between. Several fresh water streams trickle their way down grassy gullies, emerging into mini deltas before joining the swishing white surf as we carefully pick our own way down. First, pebbles scrunch and crunch as we walk towards another perfect beach.
There are fallen rocky sections of cliff, semi-submerged in the glorious sand, sitting like monoliths in an art exhibition waiting to be inspected, revered and explored.
You are able to lose yourself in a maze of toppled seaweed cliffs, interspersed with pools of clear water. Some have dainty, fairy-like waterfalls that entice you to wander and to be enthralled at the time-lapse of millennia that has caused such formations to occur.
The rain continues to pour but we still want to discover more and find shallow pools of kelp, like belts of living creatures as if waiting to be released. An array of seaweed clings to the fallen cliffs, hooked into each nook and cranny as if they cannot let go.
However, we find that small sections of sand have become saturated with wetness and are deeper than we expect. Our boots sink instantly to ankle depth. Within seconds we escape, but with saturated feet and that’s when we head back up the gully.
We have enjoyed what we’ve just seen and after drying our boots next to our Eberspacher diesel heater and a change of clothing, we head off to the most northern part of The Outer Hebrides to a place called Butt of Lewis, which includes a lighthouse. It’s noted to be the windiest spot on the island as it is very exposed to the sea elements.
When we arrive, there is indeed a strong wind and lashing rain, but we are glad to have made the trip for just one reason.
As we head back, after about 100 yards, we notice a very narrow cove has formed on the high cliffs which can be seen from the road. In the middle of this stands a huge cliff stack that’s been formed by the erosion of the waves and is surrounded by the white wrath of the Atlantic.
It takes several attempts to film, as the wind and rain is directly hitting the camera lens – but it’s certainly worth it.
We then head back to our next campsite, which is actually the smallest we have ever stayed on. It’s situated around the back of an islander’s house and has just 4 pitches, with electric hook-ups. There’s even our own toilet and shower block. All of this costs just £18 per night.
As we bed down for the night, we hang as much damp clothing as possible in the camper ensuring it’s not covering the Eberspacher diesel heater. This is one luxury that’s worth its weight in gold!